How to Work With Deadstock Cone Yarn

Deadstock cone yarn often arrives with an industrial label rather than a familiar hand-knitting ball band. You may see a metric count such as Nm 2/28, metres per 100g, abbreviated fibre names or production codes—but no recommended needle size.

That information is enough to begin. The reliable method is to translate the measurable details, knit a generous swatch and judge the yarn only after washing. This guide walks through the process.

What is cone yarn?

Cone yarn is wound for efficient use in machine knitting, weaving and industrial production. The cone format holds a long continuous length and feeds smoothly into equipment. It can also be used for hand knitting and crochet: work directly from the cone, wind off a smaller quantity or combine multiple strands.

Start with metres per 100g

Metres per 100g are usually the most practical comparison for hand knitters. A higher number indicates a finer yarn; a lower number indicates a heavier yarn. This measurement does not predict the entire fabric—fibre, twist and construction also matter—but it gives you a useful starting point.

If you hold identical strands together, divide the original length per 100g by the number of strands:

• 1,400m/100g held double behaves approximately like 700m/100g.
• 1,400m/100g held with four strands behaves approximately like 350m/100g.
• 2,400m/100g held with six strands behaves approximately like 400m/100g.

These calculations describe length and mass, not an exact retail yarn category. Always confirm the usable gauge with a washed swatch.

How to read an Nm yarn count

Nm means metric count: the number of 1,000-metre lengths in one kilogram of yarn. In a count such as 2/28, the numbers describe the number of plies and the count of the singles. Labelling conventions can vary, so use the supplier’s stated metres per 100g whenever it is available.

For Nm 2/28, two 28 Nm singles are plied together. The resulting yarn is approximately 14,000 metres per kilogram, or 1,400 metres per 100g. For Nm 3/15, three 15 Nm singles produce approximately 5,000 metres per kilogram, or 500 metres per 100g.

In this video, I explain how to read cone yarn labels, understand Nm counts and fibre abbreviations, and recognise why some industrial yarns contain spinning oils.

Common fibre abbreviations

Industrial labels may use short fibre codes. Their meaning can vary by manufacturer and language, so treat the full composition supplied with the yarn as authoritative. Codes you may encounter include WO for wool, WS for cashmere, SE for silk, LI for linen, CO for cotton, VI for viscose and PA for polyamide.

Why cone yarn may feel different before washing

Some industrial yarn contains spinning oil or wax to reduce friction during manufacturing. On the cone it may feel firmer, flatter or less lofty than the finished fibre. Washing allows the yarn and stitches to relax and reveals a more representative softness, halo and drape.

Do not wash the whole cone. Knit the yarn first, then wash the swatch and finished project unless the product information specifically advises another method.

How to wash a cone-yarn swatch

1. Knit a swatch large enough to measure away from the edges.
2. Record the needle size, strand count and gauge before washing.
3. Use cool or lukewarm water and a small amount of suitable wool wash or gentle detergent.
4. Soak without aggressive rubbing or agitation.
5. Rinse if required by the chosen wash product.
6. Press out water gently without wringing, then roll the swatch in a towel.
7. Lay it flat and allow it to dry completely.
8. Measure again and assess softness, drape, bloom, colour and stitch definition.

Always adapt the wash to the fibre. Cashmere, wool, silk, linen and cotton do not behave identically. When in doubt, test a small swatch first.

How many strands should you hold together?

Begin with the pattern’s approximate metres per 100g, then calculate a strand combination that comes reasonably close. Knit more than one swatch if necessary. A different strand count changes not only thickness but also elasticity, surface and drape.

Several strands do not have to be identical. Combining a fine wool or cashmere with mohair-and-silk, for example, can add halo and alter the fabric. Treat every combination as a new yarn and swatch it accordingly.

Choosing a needle or hook size

There is no single correct needle size for an industrial count. Start near the size used for a comparable length-per-weight yarn, then adjust according to the fabric. Use a smaller needle for a firmer fabric or a larger needle for more openness and drape. Gauge is the result of your yarn, strand count, tool, tension and washing method together.

Calculating project quantity

Compare total metres, not only grams. If a pattern calls for 1,200 metres, the project still requires approximately 1,200 metres of the working yarn after strands are combined. When holding four strands together, every metre knitted consumes four metres from the original fine yarn.

Add a margin for swatches, joins, finishing and small gauge differences. Deadstock lots are limited, so an exact replacement may not be available later.

A practical checklist

• Confirm fibre content and care requirements.
• Record metres per 100g and any Nm count.
• Choose one or more likely strand combinations.
• Knit and label generous swatches.
• Wash and dry every swatch before measuring.
• Calculate the full project meterage with a margin.
• Buy enough of the finite lot before beginning.

New to surplus mill yarn? Read What Is Deadstock Yarn? for the differences between deadstock, recycled yarn and mill ends. You can also browse our Italian yarn mill guides and see current products by spinner.